The Happiness Function

Capitol Reef National Park is one of my favorite national parks in Utah. Most people quickly drive through on their way to see Bryce, Zion, and the Grand Canyon via Highway 24. However, just driving through on National Scenic Byway 12 (a.k.a Highway 24’s Capitol Reef to Bryce Canyon) leads you to miss many of the park’s gems.

If you simply want to road trip through and pull off for a few quick photos it takes about an hour to see. However, there is so much more to do.

I worked as a summer intern for the National Park Service here years ago. I’m sharing things to do if it’s your first time visiting.

2024 Travel Note: Capitol Reef will have road construction occurring to upgrade the current infrastructure. Check the park for updates.

Things To Do

Besides driving through on the scenic byway, here are all of our favorite things to do and what you should see your first time.

Not only did I work here for a summer, Pablo and I had our first camping date in the Cathedral Valley Campground — this park has a special place in my heart.

View the Petroglyphs

While you’re near the Visitor Center, stop and walk over to the petroglyphs. You will see a roadside attraction sign. The petroglyphs are on the north side of Highway 24 — you can’t miss them.

Explore Fruita

Check out the Fruita District, orchards, and history. The trees even have fruit in the summer. Sometimes you can see deer roaming around.

Go Hiking

Capitol Reef has fifteen day hikes to explore. A few of the most popular are to Hickman Bridge and the Gorge.

There are also epic backpacking routes. Most of my hiking was in the backcountry when I did a summer internship after my senior year of college doing plant and biological soil crust surveys.

Speaking of soil surveys, be sure to stay on the trails to not damage the precious biological soil crust.

Cruise the Scenic Drives

There are three main areas to drive throughout the park:

1. “The” Scenic Drive

This is one of the leading day trip attractions. South of Fruita, you can drive a paved 21-mile route (there and back). It will take about an hour to an hour and a half to check out all the stops and sights.

Visit the Gifford Farmhouse, orchards, take in views of the Freemont River, Historic Fruita School, Grand Wash, Egyptian Temple, and Capitol Gorge.

2. Notam-Bullfrog Road

On the east side of the park, head south onto Notam-Bullfrog Road. The road is well marked so you can’t miss it. The drive will take you to Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and the Bullfrog Marina. Along the Notam Scenic Drive, you’ll find incredible geology and views of the Waterpocket Fold in Utah.

We used to love driving this road after a weekend camping at Lake Powell.

3. Cathedral Valley Road

Explore the north side of Capitol Reef’s Waterpocket Fold and South Desert. You need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to drive from Highway 24 into Cathedral Valley.

There are two ways to access this area.

The first access point: requires crossing the Freemont River (which is only recommended if you have a four-wheel-drive high clearance vehicle and weather conditions permit).

The second access point: is via Cathedral Road, and it may not be marked. It is about 28 miles to the Cathedral Valley primitive campground, and Upper Cathedral Valley Overlook from Highway 24.

This northern area of Capitol Reef is a magical place where the Thousand Lake Mountains meet the desert. In Cathedral Valley, visit Capitol Reef’s famed desert monoliths Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Moon, along with the Gypsum Sinkhole.

Travel Note: Only go here if you have a reliable vehicle and are comfortable and experienced in the backcountry.

How To Get Here

Keep in mind, that this park is in the middle of nowhere. From Moab, Capitol Reef is about two hours to the west, southwest. Hanksville is the nearest town, but it is very small. It basically has two gas stations.

Torrey is located a few minutes west of the West Entrance and is considered Capitol Reef’s “gateway.” It’s still small.

From Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef is about two hours north, northeast.

Capitol Reef National Park Map

Check out the National Park Service to get maps for Capitol Reef National Park.

How Much Does It Cost?

The entrance fee for a private vehicle is $20.

Be sure to purchase the annual America the Beautiful National Park pass if you will be touring multiple national parks in Utah — the pass will save you money.

Visitor Center

The park does have a Visitor Center located next to the historic Fruita Orchards. There are restrooms, places to get fresh water, a bookstore, and a gift shop, along with historical information.

If you plan on doing any backcountry hikes requiring permits, this is where you’ll meet with Park Rangers to register.

Best Time of Year To Visit

The best time for visiting is in the spring or fall. Summers can be in the triple digits. If you don’t plan on hiking or getting off the beaten path, you can enjoy the park year-round.

Keep weather and soil moisture in mind. I know that is a weird comment, but the soils have a lot of clay, and when clay gets wet, it is not very fun to hike or drive in, especially if you are backcountry. You can get stuck or slide off the road. So if you plan on driving into Cathedral Valley — don’t if it has just rained (trust me).

How To Avoid the Crowds

To avoid the crowds, visit during the middle of the week. Early spring and late fall have fewer crowds as well. The winter is also quiet.

Where To Stay

Camping

• Fruita Campground
• Cedar Mesa Campground – primitive camping
• Cathedral Valley Campground – primitive camping

Hotels Nearby

You can find lodging in Torrey, Utah. All of the hotels near Capitol Reef National Park are going to be in Torrey. Hanksville is really small, and you basically just drive through or get gas.

Tips For Visiting

Purchase the Annual National Park Pass

The pass is $80 and good for the year. If you plan to visit at least four to five national parks in a year it pays for itself.

Summers Can Be Really Hot

I know I already said this, but it’s true. You’ll want to wear light-wicking layers to protect your skin from the desert sun.

The elevation of Capitol Reef National Park is around 5,000 feet, which means more sun exposure.

FYI – There Are Gnats

In the late spring and summer, on less windy days, while hiking, brace yourself for the gnats. Don’t let this comment discourage you. I am just setting you up for success. If you are doing a long backcountry hike, you might even want to get a bug net for your head.

How Many Days Do You Need To Explore?

You can spend as little as an afternoon here or as much as three days.

If you only have an afternoon, cruise the scenic drive, checking out Fruita, and the roadside petroglyphs.

If you have more time, spend a few days camping and go on some hikes.

What To Pack

Pack lots of layers. Being in the intermountain desert means it could be cold in the morning, hot and sunny during the day, then rain (or snow) out of nowhere — especially in the spring. I recommend planning for all types of weather.

If you plan on camping and are curious about what to pack, check out our other post on what to bring for tent camping.

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